AUXBEAM Light Controller

[awickedtruth]

There are only a couple things that I do not like on my Texas Edition... one being the limited amount of space for switches. On my General I had installed an 8 Gang Auxbeam Switch Controller but on the Ranger XD there is only one opening on the dash panel and I did not want to run all the wires to the overhead console. I did not know that Auxbeam had come out with a slim version. I measured and found the Slim 6 Gang Switch Panel (AS-R60) fit perfectly in the overhead switch console. I recently installed an found it was easy with zero holes needing drilled... Remove the switch for the back up light (you can reroute and control them with the Auxbeam) and all the other hole covers. The slim switch fits perfectly in that place and allows you to add up to 6 more items and you no longer have to run them into the cab... they all wiring under the hood. Looks good and works great.

 

[jj46]

That looks great... clean. And if I am correct, only one wire needs to be ran to the control panel, yes?

 

[awickedtruth]

That looks great... clean. And if I am correct, only one wire needs to be ran to the control panel, yes?

Yes.. single small cable... fits easily thru the grommet behind the gauges on the firewall.

 

[Big Red]

That looks great, thanks for sharing.

 

[jtschnel]

There are only a couple things that I do not like on my Texas Edition... one being the limited amount of space for switches. On my General I had installed an 8 Gang Auxbeam Switch Controller but on the Ranger XD there is only one opening on the dash panel and I did not want to run all the wires to the overhead console. I did not know that Auxbeam had come out with a slim version. I measured and found the Slim 6 Gang Switch Panel (AS-R60) fit perfectly in the overhead switch console. I recently installed an found it was easy with zero holes needing drilled... Remove the switch for the back up light (you can reroute and control them with the Auxbeam) and all the other hole covers. The slim switch fits perfectly in that place and allows you to add up to 6 more items and you no longer have to run them into the cab... they all wiring under the hood. Looks good and works great.

Looks great, thanks for posting.

 

[DGUY]

Yes.. single small cable... fits easily thru the grommet behind the gauges on the firewall.

A, finally catching up with this request; the "small single cable through the firewall", was it routed down the roll cage driver/passenger side and how much disassembly does that require? headliner? fender? Thanks for your help.

 

[Jay B]

Nice!

 

[Big Red]

A, finally catching up with this request; the "small single cable through the firewall", was it routed down the roll cage driver/passenger side and how much disassembly does that require? headliner? fender? Thanks for your help.

I do not have this but I would run it under the headliner then down the drivers side A-Piller under the dash and through the large grommet in the firewall.

 

[awickedtruth]

A, finally catching up with this request; the "small single cable through the firewall", was it routed down the roll cage driver/passenger side and how much disassembly does that require? headliner? fender? Thanks for your help.

It has been awhile but I believe I ran it thru the grommet in the firewall… no cutting at all

 

[DGUY]

I do not have this but I would run it under the headliner then down the drivers side A-Piller under the dash and through the large grommet in the firewall.

Thanks Big Red.

 

[DGUY]

It has been awhile but I believe I ran it thru the grommet in the firewall… no cutting at all

Thanks awickedtruth.

 

[Rooster]

I ran the cable through the gromet in the firewall as well.
Rooster

 

[Doc187]

I put one in my mini jeep

 

[Big Red]

I have no idea why anybody needs one of these.........but I got to admit a kind of want one

 

[DGUY]

I need help. I installed the Auxbeam slender 6 . I hooked +/- to the bus bar feed from the battery. I did run a wire back to fuse box for the ACCY fuse. Not positive I got that end piece plugged in tight, but think so. Problem; with the key off I can touch button 6 and the lights on the panel light. I can also turn on my light bar with the key off. When I power off the panel, and get lights to turn off with the mode button then that little blue arrow next to the mode button lights up, presumably causing a minor battery drain 24/7.
Obvious mistakes I've made, suggestions, your thoughts? TIA

 

[DGUY]

Sorry, yes 1 & 3 are duplicates.

 

[Big Red]

Can't you use a Pulse Bar plug to power it rather than running a wire back to the fuse box? The main power will be fed by the large red wire that you hooked on to the bus bar feed but the switching "turn on and off" will be handled by the Pulse Bar plug. Most Pulse Bar plugs have 3 wires, a ground, a hot, and keyed power that only turns on when the key has been turned to the accessory or ON position. I would eliminate the Hot wire going to the fuse box and connect the small positive and negative wires on top of the controller to a Pulse Bar plug using the ground (black) and keyed wire (yellow) and not the hot (red)

 

[DGUY]

Can't you use a Pulse Bar plug to power it rather than running a wire back to the fuse box? The main power will be fed by the large red wire that you hooked on to the bus bar feed but the switching "turn on and off" will be handled by the Pulse Bar plug. Most Pulse Bar plugs have 3 wires, a ground, a hot, and keyed power that only turns on when the key has been turned to the accessory or ON position. I would eliminate the Hot wire going to the fuse box and connect the small positive and negative wires on top of the controller to a Pulse Bar plug using the ground (black) and keyed wire (yellow) and not the hot (red)

Thanks Big Red. I'll give that a try.

 

[DGUY]

Big Red, As you can see the two pin connector wires are joined on their way to the fuse box. Do you think I should do the same with the ground and yellow wire in your suggestion? Using a pulse bar plug that I just ordered from Amazon.

 

[Big Red]

Big Red, As you can see the two pin connector wires are joined on their way to the fuse box. Do you think I should do the same with the ground and yellow wire in your suggestion? Using a pulse bar plug that I just ordered from Amazon.

DGUY - Please keep in mind that I'm at a disadvantage here, no instructions and I haven't installed one of these but this is what I think is happening based on your pictures. The power and ground that actually runs everything is being supplied by the large red and black wires that you ran to the Pulse Bar Buss which go to the battery. The small red and black wires (top left hand side in your picture) is what actually triggers the function to happen from the remote switch. If that is the case then I see no reason to use the two pin connector since both pins go to 1 wire I don't even understand why it would be split into 2 pins. (what's the point?) What does that connector plug into? What side of the wiring harness is it on? Assuming the connector is going to the battery only I would wire it as I suggested above. If there are 2 red wires coming out the other side of the plug that go different places than that is a different story.

The black wire to the black Pulse Bar plug. The red (hot wire) to the yellow (accessory only) Pulse Bar plug. If you wire it to the Red Pulse bar plug wire it would be "HOT" all the time which is what I think your trying to avoid.

If anyone here sees this differently please chime in. I do not claim to be an expert but have wired plenty of shit in my day and this seems to make perfect sense to me.