Heat shield ?

[DMAC]

What’s everyone doing to reduce heat in floorboard channel and behind seat . Just wanting ideas to help in Texas Heat this summer ? Thanks

 

[Mr.C]

A lot of us have removed the tunnel covers and wrapped the coolant lines, and applied a product called silus (basically a heat and sound barrier). You can pick it up on Amazon. While the tunnel covers are off, I also reached anywhere I could under seats or any panel and applied that material. It has definitely helped. I have not done the rear fire wall yet.

 

[Captain Bob]

I have a significant amount of heat coming from the under the dash. Even when it is only 60 degrees out if we open the door windows it draws the warm air out from under the dash. If we keep the door windows closed and open the windshield then it is better up to about 70 degrees. Also drove it last week when it was 88 degrees and anytime I went over 40mph (road riding) it felt like the heater was on. I have already removed the fenders and stuffed foam in every nook and cranney I could find, didn't seem to help at all. The dealer checked it to make sure the valve that controls the flow of hot water does shut off. Any suggestions?

 

[Big Red]

I have the same problem with the heat coming from under the dash, around the steering column, through the door latches and so on. A lot of people talk about insulating the tunnel and the back wall but I don't think that either of those will make much difference while driving at speeds of 35 mph and up. At slow speeds maybe, but at speed not so much. There are 3 large radiators up front and fans blowing on them to remove the heat.......where do you think all that heat is going to go when your traveling at 35 mph? It's going to get forced backwards into the plastic firewall and go through any crack it can find. If you have the just the windows down it's worse as it seems to create a vacuum in the cab that sucks in both the heat and dust. I have found 2 options to minimize the heat / dust.

1. Open the side windows and crack the windshield to the vent position. This seems to pressurize the cab or at least force the air to circulate thus removing some of the heat as it exists through the windows.
2. Close it up and run the AC. Having a 2 door makes this task easier than a 4 door for sure.

Polaris updated the Pro R this year and added a big heat shield behind the radiators that deflects the hot air out and around the cab to help improve the heat problem. They also added fresh air vents on top of the hood that force fresh air into the cab. In my opinion this is what the XD needs to help solve the heat problem at speed.

Now it's safe to say that anything opening that get's sealed and or insulated should help, the question is how much and does it solve your problem.

 

[Lil red 02]

I will be watching because I still haven't ridden mine and will be using it alot during hunting season so I would prefer to get ahead of the problem

 

[Smoky Dave]

I'm having the same problem, the other day i stuff some rages where the column is and under the column and has help.

 

[claydoc]

I’m not certain if this will solve the problem, but I believe a significant portion of the dashboard and floor heat originates from beneath the front fenders. If you remove the front fenders, you’ll discover two large holes that connect to the cab. Without sealing these holes, heat and dust enter the cab.

One of the turn signal companies has a video demonstrating how to remove the front fenders. It’s not a five-minute task, but it’s not particularly difficult either.

On my crew cab, I’ve insulated all the tunnels and under the seats with both sound and heat insulation. Most areas have a double, if not triple, layer of insulation.

The rear wall is challenging to insulate, but you can do some once you remove the back seats. The factory insulates the roof, but I’ve added two more layers.

 

[Big Red]

I have the same problem with the heat coming from under the dash, around the steering column, through the door latches and so on. A lot of people talk about insulating the tunnel and the back wall but I don't think that either of those will make much difference while driving at speeds of 35 mph and up. At slow speeds maybe, but at speed not so much. There are 3 large radiators up front and fans blowing on them to remove the heat.......where do you think all that heat is going to go when your traveling at 35 mph? It's going to get forced backwards into the plastic firewall and go through any crack it can find. If you have the just the windows down it's worse as it seems to create a vacuum in the cab that sucks in both the heat and dust. I have found 2 options to minimize the heat / dust.

1. Open the side windows and crack the windshield to the vent position. This seems to pressurize the cab or at least force the air to circulate thus removing some of the heat as it exists through the windows.
2. Close it up and run the AC. Having a 2 door makes this task easier than a 4 door for sure.

Polaris updated the Pro R this year and added a big heat shield behind the radiators that deflects the hot air out and around the cab to help improve the heat problem. They also added fresh air vents on top of the hood that force fresh air into the cab. In my opinion this is what the XD needs to help solve the heat problem at speed.

Now it's safe to say that anything opening that get's sealed and or insulated should help, the question is how much and does it solve your problem.

Well I have to say I was wrong about how much impact insulating the tunnel would make. I actually did the tunnel and the storage box located under the seat since it's near the engine and tranny. I did mine last Friday and it made a VERY noticeable difference. I've only had it out 2 times since then but no longer feel all the heat on my lower legs. That said it was a pain in the ass to do and if just insulating the pipes get's the same result I would go that route. Here are pics of the material I used and the tunnel. I had already reinstalled the storage box before taking a picture of it.