DRT Rear Bumper

[Big Red]

Here is a rear bumper that I have not seen before, the install looks simple, the bumper allows full travel of the bed, and IMHO looks as good as anything I've seen so far.

 

[Big Red]

FYI cost is $425 from DRT.

 

[oneal]

Looks descent to me. I always worry over how they mount. If you back over brush it would never be an issue but if you back into a tree I fear the damage that would occur to your bed pivot. With nothing you would do the same if you connect on the bed itself but if you hit in the center wouldn't be so bad.

 

[Mr.C]

Good looking bumper. I like the lines on it. I wish they would have shown what the camera angle is and a view of it after the install. Just curious to know if it’s changed at all.

 

[Big Red]

Good looking bumper. I like the lines on it. I wish they would have shown what the camera angle is and a view of it after the install. Just curious to know if it’s changed at all.

Agree, it looks like the camera is pointing up a little

 

[Big Red]

Fueled UTV has this on sale for $360 with free shipping. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger but would like to know if the camera angle is ok. Does anyone have this bumper and knows if the camera is still usable for backing up?

 

[Pgtool]

Would also like to see how the camera angle looks. Secondly, there seems to be no reverse wires in the back of these machines since they have the backup cab light. I am guessing wires have to be run to the rear cab light or the front roof switch panel to power them. How is everyone else powering the reverse lights?

 

[Doc187]

I ran a trigger wire from the rear light. There are two hot wires. One for on with reverse one for on with the switch. I used both. One for the backup lights in my bumper so they come on with reverse and one for my rear light bar so it comes on with the switch.

 

[Big Red]

I just pulled the trigger 5 minutes ago to lock in the $360 price, after this weekend it goes back up to $450. I ordered mine from Fueled UTV which charged no tax and had free shipping.

 

[Big Red]

I installed a 4 pin trailer harness on mine and will most likely just tap into it. I might also just run a separate wire to the pulse bar and put it on a separate switch, haven't decided yet.

 

[Mr.C]

I just pulled the trigger 5 minutes ago to lock in the $360 price, after this weekend it goes back up to $450. I ordered mine from Fueled UTV which charged no tax and had free shipping.

Nice, you’ll have to definitely share some pics and the camera angle. I do like the looks of that bumper.

 

[Mr.C]

The lights on my headache rack and in my rear bumper I have on a shared switch. I wanted the ability to have the lights on whenever I wanted, and not just in reverse.

 

[Big Red]

Nice, you’ll have to definitely share some pics and the camera angle. I do like the looks of that bumper.

I'm sure I'm going to loose the ability to see the ball on my hitch because the bumper pushes the camera out further and tilts it up a bit. That said I think I will still be able to see the ground behind me which is the most important thing for me. I will post some pics when I get it installed hopefully next weekend.

 

[Mr.C]

I can’t see my ball very well either with having the winch on my rear bumper. But it gets me close enough for the trailers I hook up to it with. I’ve thought about getting an extension anyways, so the ball is a little further out for easier connecting. And if I’m not careful, the fairlead will get caught on the ball if I tilt the bed down to far and it’s a real pain in the ass to undo.

 

[Big Red]

Just finished installing the DRT rear bumper. The lights come preinstalled you just need to add leads to them. Mounting the brackets are fairly easy but getting a wrench on the bolt under the bed SUCKS. By far the hardest part of the install. I found it much easier to just clamp the brackets on the bed then measure the distance apart from each other which needs to be just shy of 42 1/2" (use bumper for your measurement) The outside of the brackets almost line up with the edge of the bed (see bracket pic) I also found it much easier to use a center punch and pilot drill for marking out the center of the holes. I left the bracket clamped while I drilled all the holes. Install bolts but don't fully tighten, test fit the bumper and the brackets will self align, then snug the bracket bolts to the bed. I then removed the bumper and fully tightened all the bracket bolts. You need to reinstall the tailgate before you bolt the bumper back on or it will be very difficult to put the retaining bolt back on the left side of the tailgate. Set the bumper back on and tighten the 6 bolts and your done. I have 32" BFG KM3's and the bumper clears them no problem. The camera is tilted up a bit but you can see the ground starting about 54" from the back of the bumper (see bucket in picture) The bumper does not hit the ball when fully tilted, you can see what the camera looks like with the bed fully tilted.

All in all a fairly easy install, the lights may be the hardest part. Anyone have a suggestion on what the easiest route is to run the wires from the back to under the hood? I haven't started that process yet as I'm waiting on a wiring harness which should arrive today.

 

[Mr T.]

I picked up the same bumper and am installing along with WD turn signal kit. The install video for the signal kit has a good section on removing panels to run wiring along passenger side. Plastics are pretty easy to remove and might be a good option for wiring bumper lights.

 

[Mr.C]

Just finished installing the DRT rear bumper. The lights come preinstalled you just need to add leads to them. Mounting the brackets are fairly easy but getting a wrench on the bolt under the bed SUCKS. By far the hardest part of the install. I found it much easier to just clamp the brackets on the bed then measure the distance apart from each other which needs to be just shy of 42 1/2" (use bumper for your measurement) The outside of the brackets almost line up with the edge of the bed (see bracket pic) I also found it much easier to use a center punch and pilot drill for marking out the center of the holes. I left the bracket clamped while I drilled all the holes. Install bolts but don't fully tighten, test fit the bumper and the brackets will self align, then snug the bracket bolts to the bed. I then removed the bumper and fully tightened all the bracket bolts. You need to reinstall the tailgate before you bolt the bumper back on or it will be very difficult to put the retaining bolt back on the left side of the tailgate. Set the bumper back on and tighten the 6 bolts and your done. I have 32" BFG KM3's and the bumper clears them no problem. The camera is tilted up a bit but you can see the ground starting about 54" from the back of the bumper (see bucket in picture) The bumper does not hit the ball when fully tilted, you can see what the camera looks like with the bed fully tilted.

All in all a fairly easy install, the lights may be the hardest part. Anyone have a suggestion on what the easiest route is to run the wires from the back to under the hood? I haven't started that process yet as I'm waiting on a wiring harness which should arrive today.

Bumper looks good. The camera angle still looks functional. Sorry I can’t help you with the wiring. My only thought is what about through the tunnel?

 

[Big Red]

Bumper looks good. The camera angle still looks functional. Sorry I can’t help you with the wiring. My only thought is what about through the tunnel?

That's probably what I'm going to do. Looks like I can follow the wiring harness on the passenger side down around the battery then through the tunnel up to the hood area. I'm just being lazy and didn't want to remove that crap again since I just did it a few weeks ago when I insulated the tunnel and under seat storage box. Not a big job just one I was too lazy to do yesterday.

 

[Rupp Collector]

That's probably what I'm going to do. Looks like I can follow the wiring harness on the passenger side down around the battery then through the tunnel up to the hood area. I'm just being lazy and didn't want to remove that crap again since I just did it a few weeks ago when I insulated the tunnel and under seat storage box. Not a big job just one I was too lazy to do yesterday.

When I ran my FM antenna to the rear all I removed was the front drivers side wheel well piece and loosened the sill plate. Use a long stiff but flexible rod and hook your wires to that and draw them to the front.

 

[Big Red]

When I ran my FM antenna to the rear all I removed was the front drivers side wheel well piece and loosened the sill plate. Use a long stiff but flexible rod and hook your wires to that and draw them to the front.

Thanks, I'll check that out! No time this week and out of town for a bit after that. Might be a few weeks till I have a chance to do it.